Friday 19 May 2017

Top 3 things to do in Hiroshima (Miyajima, Atomic Bomb Dome and Peace Memorial Museum)

Day 7

Hiroshima (広島市) is the largest city in the Chugoku region of western Honshu. It is better known to the world as the city which the first nuclear weapon (Little Boy) was detonated in warfare, towards the end of World War II. Because of the atomic bomb explosion more than 70 years ago, there's a misconception among many that it is not safe to visit Hiroshima because of the residual radiation. This understanding is incorrect, as based on official report, the background radiation in Hiroshima and Nagasaki today is the same as the average amount of natural radiation present anywhere on Earth. This is different as compared to the Chernobyl and Fukushima nuclear reactor disaster. This is because the amount of nuclear fuel and reaction efficiency in the atomic bombing is much lesser as compared to the nuclear reactors leak. In addition, the atomic bomb exploded in mid-air, which the radiation was quickly dispersed by wind and rain. In short, it is safe to visit and live in Hiroshima today.

We woke up fresh in morning at our Airbnb, fully re-charged from the tiring travelling the day before from Osaka. Our Airbnb is a Ryokan-styled apartment, with traditional Japanese/modern blend of decorations and tatami-matted rooms. It was a rare find in an urban city like Hiroshima and it was one of the main reason why we had chosen this apartment, with other advantages such as being close by to the public transportation and major attractions.


hiroshima airbnb
Our Airbnb apartment (Source: Photo from Airbnb.com)
hiroshima airbnb





Miyajima (宮島)

We kicked off the day with a visit to Miyajima (宮島), an island located in the south-west direction from the Hiroshima city centre. It is most famous for the Giant Torii Gate on water, Itsukushima Shrine (厳島神社) and the free roaming Sika deer. We had some simple breakfast at the convenience shop near our Airbnb, before we took the tram from Honkawa-cho Hiroden Station (本川町) to Nishi-Hiroshima Hiroden Station (西広島駅).


hiroshima honkawa-cho hiroden station
Honkawa-cho Hiroden Station

Riding the tram was an unique and convenient way to move around the city. The Hiroshima tram had a long operational history since 1910, but the current tram design is modern and spacious.

hiroshima tram streetcar
Tram arriving the station
hiroshima tram streetcar interior
Interior of tram

After reaching the Nishi-Hiroshima Hiroden Station (西広島駅), we interchanged at the JR station and took the JR Sanyo Line to Miyajimaguchi JR Station (宮島口駅).


hiroshima miyajimaguchi jr station
Miyajimaguchi JR Station

After arriving Miyajimaguchi JR Station (宮島口駅), it was another short 5 minutes walk towards the Miyajimaguchi Ferry Terminal to take the ferry to the island. There are 2 ferry operators at the terminal, JR West Miyajima Ferry and Matsudai Kisen Ferry. We waited for the JR West Miyajima Ferry since we were holding the JR Pass and the ferry ticket is covered by the JR Pass.


hiroshima jr west miyajima ferry
JR West Miyajima Ferry

The ferry ride to the island was about 10 minutes. The ferry is air-conditioned with comfortable cushion seats, but most people would crowd outside the open balcony area to take photograph of the Giant Torii Gate during the ferry trip.


hiroshima miyajima giant torii gate
View of Miyajima island and the Giant Torii Gate from the ferry
hiroshima miyajima itsukushima shrine
Introduction to Miyajima and Itsukushima Shrine
hiroshima miyajima accommodation map
Accommodation Map

After we disembarked from the ferry, we walked towards the direction of the Itsukushima Shrine (厳島神社), through the shopping street. As it was still early, not many shops were opened yet, except for some shops selling snacks and souvenirs. Probably the breakfast earlier was not fulfilling enough, we just could not resist to buy some of the delicious snacks along the way, such as the Hiroshima-Style Okonomiyaki, Momiji Manju (a type of filling stuffed cake in a shape of Japanese maple leaf) and ice-cream.


hiroshima miyajima oyster curry bread okonomiyaki
Shop selling Oyster Curry Bread and Hiroshima-styled Okonomiyaki
hiroshima miyajima okonomiyaki
Okonomiyaki
hiroshima miyajima ice-cream
Ice-cream
hiroshima miyajima momiji manju
Momiji Manju

After walking through the shopping street, we finally arrived at the photo taking spot of the Giant Torii Gate, which is ranked as the best scenic place in Japan. When we were there, it was high tide and the Giant Torii Gate seems to be 'floating" on the water.


hiroshima miyajima floating giant torii gate
Giant Torii Gate on water

During the low tide, visitors could actually walk to the gate. Over here it was crowded with people, not just to catch the best view of Giant Torii Gate, but also to take photos of the many free roaming Sika deer around us.


hiroshima miyajima sika deer
Free roaming Sika deer
hiroshima miyajima guide map
Miyajima Guide Map


Itsukushima Shrine (厳島神社)

Next, we bought the entrance tickets and headed into the Itsukushima Shrine (厳島神社). The shrine complex is an UNESCO World Heritage Site, dedicated to three daughters of Susano-o no Mikoto, Shinto God of Seas and Storms, and brother of Sun Goddess. It was first built in the 6th century, but over the years, it was destroyed and re-built many times, with the present shrine dated to the mid-16th century.


hiroshima miyajima itsukushima shrine
Overview of Itsukushima Shrine
hiroshima miyajima itsukushima shrine entrance ticket
Entrance tickets

The shrine is designed and built over the bay like a pier, which during the high tide seems to float over the water, similar to the Giant Torri Gate.


hiroshima miyajima itsukushima shrine

hiroshima miyajima itsukushima shrine

hiroshima miyajima itsukushima shrine

hiroshima miyajima itsukushima shrine

There wasn't much things to do here, other than walking around the complex and taking photos of the complex with the surrounding water and mountain views, and the Giant Torri Gate again.


hiroshima miyajima itsukushima shrine
Cherry flowers started to bloom on the mountain behind the shrine
hiroshima miyajima itsukushima shrine torii
View of the Giant Torii Gate from the shrine
hiroshima miyajima itsukushima shrine torii

hiroshima miyajima itsukushima shrine
Arch Bridge
hiroshima miyajima itsukushima shrine
View of the Pagoda from the exit of the shrine

After the shrine visit, it was lunch time and we headed back to the shopping street. It was a different scene when we first arrived at the shopping street, as all shops were now opened and the street was crowded with tourists. We observed that there were many shops selling the Momiji Manju and oysters. I could not resist and bought a grilled oyster to try out, which was big and very fresh.


hiroshima miyajima momiji manju shop
Shop selling different flavours of Momiji Manju
hiroshima miyajima oyster shop
Oyster shop
hiroshima miyajima grilled oyster
Freshly grilled oyster
hiroshima miyajima hello kitty
Hello Kitty themed shop

Others were distracted along the way to buy various souvenirs and loads of Momiji Manju to bring back to Singapore. Along the way, we also saw a giant wooden rice scoop on display, which is said to be the largest wooden rice scoop in the world. It was constructed in 1996 to commemorate the designation of Itsukushima Shrine (厳島神社) as an UNESCO World Heritage Site. In many of the souvenir shops, we could also find many wooden rice spoons on sale, which is said to be able to bring good luck.


hiroshima miyajima giant wooden rice scoop
Giant Wooden Rice Scoop
hiroshima miyajima giant wooden rice scoop
Introduction to the Giant Wooden Rice Scoop


Lunch @ Tachibana (たち花)

After the tiring shopping, we settled down at a restaurant called Tachibana (たち花) for our lunch. As we were a big group, we were given a long table with tatami seating. The environment was cozy and staff were friendly. There was English menu, so it was easy for us to order the food, which were reasonably priced as well. Most of us ordered the Pork Katsu Curry Rice and Oyakodon.


hiroshima miyajima tachibana
Our lunch sets at Tachibana

After the meal, we went straight to the ferry terminal and departed Miyajima (宮島). By doing the reverse way on how came to Miyajima (宮島), we went back to our Airbnb apartment in Hiroshima city centre to deposit the souvenirs that we had bought and took a short rest.


Atomic Bomb Dome (原爆ドーム)

After the short recharge, we walked from our Airbnb apartment around 15 minutes to the Atomic Bomb Dome (原爆ドーム), which is another UNESCO World Heritage Site, and together with the nearby Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park (広島平和記念公園), is a must-visit place in Hiroshima.


hiroshima atomic bomb dome
Atomic Bomb Dome
hiroshima atomic bomb dome aioi bridge
Aioi Bridge, the apparent target of the Atomic Bomb
hiroshima atomic bomb dome red bird monument
Red Bird Monument by the river bank
hiroshima atomic bomb dome red bird monument
Introduction to the Red Bird Monument

The building, which is now a ruin, serves as a memorial to the people killed during the atomic bombing of Hiroshima on 6 August 1945. The building was located very near to the bomb's hypocenter (just 160m away) and it was the only structure left standing in the nearby vicinity. Before the bombing, the building was known as The Hiroshima Prefecture Commercial Exhibition Hall, with a distinctive dome structure at the top. During bomb explosion, the building's vertical columns were able to resist the blast and parts of the concrete and brink outer walls remain intact, as seen today.


hiroshima atomic bomb dome
Remains of the Atomic Bomb Dome
hiroshima atomic bomb dome

hiroshima atomic bomb dome
Information on the Atomic Bomb Dome
hiroshima atomic bomb dome
UNESCO World Heritage Site inscription
hiroshima atomic bomb dome

Visitors are not able to go near to the building, as the area is barricaded. We walked around the building, occasionally stopped to view the many information boards along the way, which introduced the history of the building. There were many visitors there and I could feel the sombre ambience among them.


hiroshima atomic bomb dome
History of the Atomic Bomb Dome


Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park (広島平和記念公園)

Next, we crossed the bridge and headed towards the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park (広島平和記念公園), which is a large park dedicated to the legacy of Hiroshima as the first city in the world to suffer a nuclear attack and many victims of the bombing.


hiroshima peace memorial park fuel hall taishoya kimono shop
Fuel Hall, one of the building within the park location that survived the atomic bombing

There are a number landmarks in the park, such as the Rest House, Children's Peace Monument, Peace Bell, Atomic Bomb Memorial Mound, Pond of Peace, Flame of Peace, Memorial Cenotaph, Gates of Peace and the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum (広島平和記念資料館).

We first visited the Children's Peace Monument, which was built in memory of all children who died as a result of the Hiroshima atomic bombing.


hiroshima peace memorial park children peace monument
Children's Peace Monument
hiroshima peace memorial park children peace monument
Introduction of the Children's Peace Monument

It was inspired by Sadako Sasaki, who was exposed to the atomic bombing radiation at the age of 2 years old and eventually died of leukemia. She believed that if she folded 1000 paper cranes, she could be cured. Beside the statue, we could see many paper cranes contributed by children from Japan and other countries, heeding the call in seek of world peace from the folding of the paper cranes.


hiroshima peace memorial park children peace monument paper crane
Paper crane contributions from children of all parts of the world
hiroshima peace memorial park children peace monument paper crane

hiroshima peace memorial park children peace monument paper crane

Next, we walked towards the center of the park, where the Pond of Peace, Flame of Peace and the Memorial Cenotaph are located. At the northern edge of the Pond of Peace is where the Flame of Peace is located, which the flame has burned continuously since it was lit in 1964 and will continue to remain lit until all nuclear weapons are removed from the planet.

hiroshima peace memorial park pond of peace flame of peace
Pond of Peace and Flame of Peace
hiroshima peace memorial park pond of peace flame of peace
Introduction to the Pond of Peace and Flame of Peace

The Memorial Cenotaph is a concrete monument that holds the names of all the people killed by the atomic bombing.


hiroshima peace memorial park memorial cenotaph
Memorial Cenotaph
hiroshima peace memorial park memorial cenotaph


Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum (広島平和記念資料館)

In my opinion, the most important landmark that visitors should visit in the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park (広島平和記念公園) is the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum (広島平和記念資料館). You cannot find another museum in the world (except for the counterpart Atomic Bomb Museum in Nagasaki) that covers the extent of the exhibits and information on the atomic bombing. The museum is split into 2 sections, the East Wing and West Wing. During our visit, the East Wing was closed for renovation, but some of the important information was displayed at the West Wing during the period.


hiroshima peace memorial museum
Entering the museum
hiroshima peace memorial museum ticket
Entrance ticket

The exhibit started with the photos of atomic bombing (mushroom cloud), taken by local Japanese from afar just minutes after the explosion. These are rare photos not normally seen on documentaries and publications.


hiroshima peace memorial museum
Photos of the atomic bomb explosion mushroom cloud
hiroshima peace memorial museum
Rare photos of the mushroom cloud taken by local Japanese
hiroshima peace memorial museum
Photo of the survivors on the day of the atomic bombing

In the main hall following this, there is a panorama model of the Hiroshima city in the aftermath of the atomic bombing and shows the location of the hypocenter.


hiroshima peace memorial museum
Panorama model of the Hiroshima city destruction
hiroshima peace memorial museum

hiroshima peace memorial museum

The sides of the hall contain more exhibits, such as photos on the aftermath of the bombing, personal belongings of normal civilians who died within the immediate vicinity of the bombing, introduction to the atomic bomb and effects of the harmful radiation.


hiroshima peace memorial museum
A big photograph showing the aftermath of the atomic bombing
hiroshima peace memorial museum
Re-enactment of the horrific state of the survivors of the explosion
hiroshima peace memorial museum charred lunch box
Charred lunch box
hiroshima peace memorial museum tricycle
Badly burnt tricycle
hiroshima peace memorial museum atomic bomb
Introduction of the atomic bomb (Little Boy)
hiroshima peace memorial museum atomic bomb little boy
Structure of the atomic bomb
hiroshima peace memorial museum atomic bomb little boy
Life size model of the atomic bomb (Little Boy)
hiroshima peace memorial museum atomic bomb
Power of the atomic bomb
hiroshima peace memorial museum steel frame
Damaged steel frame from the blast
hiroshima peace memorial museum measure hypocenter
Measurement of the hypocenter
hiroshima peace memorial museum damage human
Harmful effects of the atomic bomb explosion on humans
hiroshima peace memorial museum shadow
"Black Shadow"
hiroshima peace memorial museum residual radiation
Residual radiation

The atmosphere of the entire exhibition area was sombre, as we could see many elderly Japanese tearing when viewing the exhibits. At the end of the hall, there were exhibits featuring ex-US President Obama's visit to Hiroshima city on 27 May 2016.


hiroshima peace memorial museum us president obama
Ex-US President Obama's visit to Hiroshima Memorial Peace Park
hiroshima peace memorial museum us president obama

hiroshima peace memorial museum us president obama

hiroshima peace memorial museum us president obama
Paper crane made by Obama
hiroshima peace memorial park cherry blossom
Cherry blossom within the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park


Dinner @ Hondori Street (本通)

After our museum visit, we exited the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park (広島平和記念公園) and headed east towards the Hondori Street (本通).

hiroshima hondori street
Entering the Hondori Street

This is the main shopping belt of Hiroshima, a covered shopping arcade, flanked by rows of shops, cafes, restaurants and departmental stores.


hiroshima hondori street
Hondori Street
hiroshima hondori street

hiroshima hondori street

As it was already close to dinner time, we headed to the Okonomi-mura (お好み村) located at the eastern end of the street, which is a 4 storey high building filled with numerous stalls selling the famous Okonomiyaki!


hiroshima hondori street okonomi-mura okonomiyaki
Okonomi-mura

However, we were soon disappointed as after combing all the stalls in each level, all the stalls were either fully occupied or fully reserved. As we were a large group, it could take a long time to wait for the seats. We decided to look elsewhere for our dinner. Just as we exited the building, we saw some advertisements from the building next door (Okonomi Republic), where they have stalls selling Okonomiyaki too. We decided to pay a visit to the 3rd floor and were lucky to settle down at one of the stall, Teppan Guts.


hiroshima okonomi republic teppan guts okonomiyaki
English menu from Teppan Guts

We were seated in front of the teppan where the chef started to prepare and cook our Okonomiyaki.


hiroshima okonomi republic teppan guts okonomiyaki
Chef preparing our Okonomiyaki
hiroshima okonomi republic teppan guts okonomiyaki
Final touch with the sauce

After the long wait, the Okonomiyaki was finally served, which we immediately tucked in as we were already hungry.


hiroshima okonomi republic teppan guts okonomiyaki
Enjoying our Okonomiyaki

The Okonomiyaki was delicious and inexpensive, which we counted ourselves lucky to have found this Okonomiyaki stall.

After the dinner, it was time to end the day, which we walked to the Hatchobori Hiroden Station and took the tram back to our Airbnb.


Follow the links below to the other days of my Japan tour:

Day 4: Kyoto Imperial Palace, Kinkaku-ji Temple, Arashiyama, Togetsukyo Bridge, Arashiyama Bamboo Grove, Kyoto Nishiki Warai

Day 5: Osaka, New Osaka Hotel Shinsaibashi, Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan, Osaka Castle, Shinsaibashi Shopping Street, Dotonburi, Ichiran Ramen

Day 6: Momofuku Ando Instant Ramen Museum, Tenjinbashi-suiji Shopping Street, Osaka Museum of Housing and Living

Day 7: Hiroshima, Tram, Miyajima, Giant Torii Gate, Sika Deer, Itsukushima Shrine, Atomic Bomb Dome, Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park, Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum, Hondori Street, Okonomiyaki

Day 8: Hotel Sardonyx Ueno, Meiji Jingu, Shibuya Crossing, Hachiko Dog Statue



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